An unsatisfied curiosity -- Great expectations : Lewis in Philadelphia -- Days of discovery -- Independence Creek -- The Alexander Hamilton Willard expedition -- Of hearths and home -- "This long wished for spot" -- "Seens of visionary inchantment" -- Meriwether Lewis's "curious adventure" -- "Toilsome days and wristless nights" -- "The most hospitable, honest and sincere people" -- Hallowed ground -- Meditations on a grave -- The view from the home front -- The Lewis and Clark guide to leadership -- We proceeded on -- "O! The joy" : trail advice for the modern explorer